A pointe shoe is fitted to the foot, not to a shoe size. This guide explains how to check the box, vamp, shank and platform, and when to book a fitting with a professional.
Before the first fitting. Pointe work starts when the body is ready, not at a fixed age. Your teacher should confirm that you have enough strength in the ankles, feet, core and hips to hold your alignment on demi-pointe, and that your growth is far enough along. Fit both feet, because they are rarely identical, and choose the shoe for the larger one. Fit at the end of the day or after class, when feet are at their largest, wearing the tights and padding you will dance in.
Know your foot. Four things decide the fit. Length and toe shape: the longest toe sets the length of the shoe, and the arrangement of your toes (first toe longest, second toe longest, or the first three toes of similar length) sets the shape of the platform, which should carry the toes in a flat line without crowding them. Width: measured across the ball of the foot with your weight on it, it sets the width of the box. Instep and arch: a high, mobile instep needs more support under the arch, while a lower or stiffer instep needs a shank that bends more easily. Strength: how well your ankles and the small muscles of the foot keep you over the box decides how much shank strength you can control.
Measure at home. Stand on a sheet of paper with your weight evenly on both feet and trace each foot with the pen held upright. Measure the length from the heel to the longest toe and the width at the ball, and note your toe shape. Use these numbers to choose which sizes and widths to try. They do not replace trying the shoe on.
Box and platform. The box wraps the toes and the platform is the flat surface you stand on. Standing flat, your toes should lie straight and just reach the end of the box, without curling, bunching or being pushed back. On pointe, your weight should rest on the platform with the ankle stacked above it. If the foot sinks down into the box, the shoe is too big or the box too soft. If the toes feel squeezed, or the side walls bulge when you rise, the shoe is too narrow.
Vamp. The vamp is the front of the upper that covers the toes. It should lie smooth over the toes, with no wrinkles and no skin spilling out at the sides. A longer vamp holds long or tapered toes in place and gives more support. A shorter vamp leaves shorter toes more freedom and makes it easier to roll through demi-pointe. Look at the shoe from the side on pointe: the toes should not push through the top edge of the vamp or ride up on it.
Shank. The shank is the stiffened sole that supports the arch. It should follow the line of your arch and bend where your foot bends, just behind the ball of the foot, as you roll up to demi-pointe. A shank that folds in the middle of the arch is too soft for you. One that resists the roll, so that your heel stays behind and your ankle has to fight the shoe, is too hard. The shank supports the arch and your muscles do the standing. Choose the strength you can control today, not the one you hope to grow into.
Heel, sides and throat. The heel and sides should hug the foot with no gap and no gripping. The heel should stay in place when you rise; if it lifts away from your heel on pointe, the shoe is too long or the heel too wide. The drawstring closes the throat of the shoe. Tie it flat and tuck it in so that it does not cut across the foot.
Padding, ribbons and elastic. Padding changes the volume inside the shoe, so fit with the padding you will actually use, and use as little as comfort allows. Fold the heel forward and sew each ribbon on the inside, where the fold meets the side of the shoe. Sew an elastic strap across the instep, cross the ribbons at the front of the ankle, wrap them around and finish with a flat knot at the inside of the ankle, tucked out of sight.
Care and replacement. A pair softens with every hour of use. How long it lasts depends on your weight, how much you dance, the floor and the humidity. Let the shoes dry completely between classes, away from direct heat, and alternate two pairs if you dance every day. Replace a pair when the box and shank have softened enough that your foot loses support, or when it no longer fits the way it did.
When to book a professional fitting. Book a fitting with a trained fitter, and talk to your teacher, for your first pair, after a growth spurt, after an injury, after a change in your training load, or whenever a shoe feels wrong. Pointe work takes getting used to, but sharp or lasting pain, numbness, repeated blisters, bruised toenails or a toe joint that is changing shape are signals to stop and check the fit. Persistent symptoms deserve a visit to a podiatrist or sports physician. If you cannot be fitted in person, write to us at [email] with your foot tracings and photos and we will help you narrow down your choice.